The Making of Batik

1. Nganji

Nganji process - from Handbook of Indonesian Batik. Before being labeled, usually mori washed first with water until the starch is lost original and clean, then the kanji again. Motif batik should be coated with a starch with a certain thickness, if too thick will attach less good night and if too thin then the result tonight will be "mblobor" which will be difficult to remove.

With the highest quality Mori [Primisima] does not need to be starched again, because the thickness of the kanji already qualified.

2. Ngemplong

Usually just a smooth mori need dikemplong before dibatik. Mori blue for direct printed batik can usually be done without the preparatory work.  The purpose of ngemplong is for mori become slippery and loose. For this purpose mori put on a chip of wood and pounded regularly by wood bat as well.

Mori will be easier so the results are better.

Ngemplong process - from Handbook of Indonesian Batik





3. Nglowong - Attachment malam[candles] first





Done kemplong, mori is ready to work. Batik fabrication technique consists of the main job, starting from the main job, starting with nglowong is tasting or batik motifs above mori using the canting. Nglowong on the cloth is also called ngengreng and after it continued with nerusi on the other side.

Nglowong process with cap

Nglowong process with canting 

4. Nembok - sticking the second malam

Before dipped into dye, the desired part remains white, should be closed by night. Layers tonight proverbial wall to hold substances do not seep gets perwarna for the closed night. Therefore, this work is called a brick, if there is seepage due tembokannya less powerful then the white should be visible colored line 2 which will reduce the beauty of batik. That is why the night the wall must be strong and resilient, others by night klowong that actually should not be too resilient to be easily scraped.

Nembok 





5. Medel - first the dye Dyeing

Medel goal is to give a dark blue color as base color fabric. Relic of this work takes several days for using indigo dye [Javanese language: tom].This dye is very slow to absorb the cloth so it must be done over and over again, now with modern color material can be done quickly.

6. Ngerok - eliminate malam from klowong process

The part that will be in soga for brown, scraped with Cawuk [sort of a blunt knife is made of zinc] to get rid of his night.

7. Mbironi - use of malam into three

The next job adalam Mbironi, which consists of closure with wax cloth parts that remain are expected to blue, while the part that will be in soga remain open. Mbironi job is done on two sides of the fabric.

8. Nyoga

Nyoga is a time consuming process, because the dye into soga. If using natural soga, was not just one or two times only, should be repeated. Each time immersion al fresco had dried. By using synthetic soga then this process can be shortened only half an hour. The term is taken from the word menyoga certain tree which the tree produces skin color soga [brown] when immersed in water.

9. Nglorod

After obtaining the desired color, the fabric had undergone a process again that night which still lag mori should be eliminated, the way to put into boiling water, called Nglorod. 

10. Nyoga - second Dipping

Nglorod, Eliminated Candles

Living Resources Javanese Gamelan

For most people, listening to Java gendhing not simply enjoy the gentle strains of harmonization of rhythms generated from a set of gamelan and gamelan-barreled slendro only. But also reveal the Javanese philosophy of life of harmony between physical and spiritual life, or harmony in speaking and acting.

Apparently, this also inspired Suwito Hadiprayitno in life as. gamelan craftsmen. Slowly and not kemrungsung. As the soft strains of gamelan sounds to play. The principle of life is firmly entrenched in the hearts and minds of artisans as well as the mastermind who was familiarly called Mbah Wito this.

"Human life is like a puppet who resigned acting anything by the masterminds of the Gusti A1lah," he said in Kabare.



According to him, he always semeleh undergo any tidal gamelan handicraft business. When the great earthquake struck Bantul tlatah end of May 2007 ago, homes were destroyed as well as its place at work without rest. As a result, he must be willing to run the business under plastic sheeting which is also a place of shelter their families after the earthquake. After all, he always believed that if God wills damage, surely He would be correct. In fact, precisely ordered items flowing.

"Many friends mastermind and government agencies that lose gamelan because the house was crushed by rubble by the quake. With capital assistance saws, Passover, and the chisel of the Cultural Office of Bantul Regency, I slowly began to rise again starting my business, "said the craftsman who get STIE SBI Business Solutions Award from Indonesia (SBI) and Exxon Mobil as small and medium entrepreneurs who The most rapid rise up and restore its economy effort after earthquake of 2007.

At home with small pendapa that looks simple, Mbah Wito put some of his work is half finished or are still in early stages of processing. Some stick-shaped wooden board nangka.yang've also seen menumpukdi west side of the room.

That morning, Mbah a daily Wito assisted by children and four employees were in the midst melaras tones of a xylophone. Slow down, cleaned and lined hit ironwood located over ranca'an xylophone carefully until you hear a distinctive rhythmic xylophone. Not far from its place, the old carpenter who had middle memasah ranca'an timber to be used or where the gamelan.

"At this time I was assisted by four employees. A carpenter, a carver of the original people of Jepara, one of the finishing section, and another one pelaras tone. While the design ranca'an or gamelan my own place, "he explained.

On average, a set of gamelan slendro pelog completed for a month. A set of gamelan slendro pelog is a complete set of gamelan consist of kendhan bonang, bonang successor, demung, saron, peking, kenong and kethuk, slenthem, gender, gong, xylophone, fiddle, siter, and flute. In addition to serving a full gamelan orders, Mbah Wito also serve the order in the form of a part of it. Like a gong or kendhang only.

After all that, the husband of this Astuti Widji always obedient customer desires. If anyone who wants fast, it will be done as soon as possible. Although not rare many have not in a hurry and more relax in order to wait for the results of gamelan.

However whether the applicant wishes, Mbah Wito always serious in completing his work. One of them in sync tone. Given the Javanese gamelan is a musical instrument that produces a tone pentatonic composition typical Java soft tone to play. Very different from Balinese gamelan attractive and expressive. Sundanese gamelan or a mendayu because the game flute.

Spirit of Javanese gamelan is used to turn the inspiration and enthusiasm for the pioneering efforts of gamelan in the early 1980s ago. At that time, with the capital money of Rp 500,000, champion Wito looking for a set of Javanese gamelan to train children around the house playing the gamelan. Not unexpectedly, gamelan actually liked people and was purchased for $ 1 million until he had to find again. Time is waiting orders this gamelan, Mbah Wito so know the process of making ranca'an gamelan and decided to set up their own business. His first was the mastermind misuwur Buyers of Bantul, Ki Timbul Hadiprayitno.

Since then, people started to like the gamelan design and ordering. Both agencies or personal. Not only from the cities or outside of Java in Java alone. But also from abroad. One is Gustavo Yudhaningrat that are often asked for ranca'an gamelan or crate a place to store puppets.

To satisfy customers and generate a nice gamelan, Mbah Wito always use quality materials. Special wood, crafters ever dipupu by the mastermind of origin Village Packaging, Wirokerten, Bantul use jackfruit wood, as if struck, his voice echo. Especially to make saron, kendhang, and puppet box. The older age of the wood, the better the quality of the output.

As a craftsman, father of two sons is just making ranca'an or the gamelan and merangkainya only. As for the bronze, brass, and iron, Mbah Wito working with local artisans Bekonang, Solo.

Given the manufacturing process that requires special and a relatively long time, fair price when the gamelan with tens and even hundreds of millions of dollars according to the material. A set of gamelan bronze example is priced Rp 300 million. While the brass around Rp 200 million. Which is fairly cheap iron Rp.30 million.

After all that, slowing down the country's current economic conditions coupled with rising fuel prices that triggered the increase in cost of production to make orders go sluggish blood and quiet. Not busy as always flooded with orders from various regions in Indonesia and abroad. In fact, during the New Order era and that many officials had ordered him gamelan. As Harmoko and Sudwikatmono.

"This is like her grief into gamelan craftsmen. Once crowded now kosok balene. After all that happened today, Gusti Allah is Oft Asih because there are still orders from Malaysia, "he said. Despite flagging, Mbah Wito spirit to turn the business gamelan likewise not retroactive. While filling the void ordered items, now Mbah Wito also make wooden cabinets. To be sure, this 58-year-old man was determined to cultivate the business that has been ingrained this until the end of life.

If you are interested to have their own gamelan bring it home, you just come into place in Kedhaton Wito Mbah, Pleret, Bantul. Only a half hour drive from Yogyakarta, you will get to the house and where his efforts to rengeng-rengeng, gamelan also will beautify your home turn.

Demak

A regent son of Moslems around the UB in 1500 named Raden Patah / Jin Bun / R. Bintoro and domiciled in Demak, openly cuts loose from Majapahit who was helpless again, and the assistance of other areas that have been Islam (like Gresik, Tuban and Jepara), he founded the Islamic empire centered in Demak. Another son named Bondan Kejawan / Lembupeteng in Tarub marry Rr. Nawangsih (children of the marriage between Joko Tarub and Rr. Nawangwulan) has a granddaughter from her son named Kyai Ageng Brittle / R. Depok in Pandowo, namely Kyai Ageng Selo / Good Songgom / Risang Sutowijoyo / Syeih Abdurrahman.

Another son named UB Lembupeteng also based in Gilimangdangin / Sampang, has called raden Praseno great-grandson who became duke of Sampang, nicknamed Cakraningrat I, in which his son is named prince step is to replace and hold Cakraningrat II, while the other son has a child that is Trunojoyo.



Being the daughter of the Queen Pambayun UB is married with Pn. Dayaningrat have 2 (two) children named Kebokanigoro and Kebokenongo / Ki Ageng Pengging who became a close friend of controversial saint Sheikh Siti Jenar.

He also finally able to tear down as king of Majapahit and the first Muslim Sultan of Demak title he achieved greatness, but as a symbol of unity still ongoing Majapahit kingdom in a new form, all the tools ceremonies and heritage brought to Demak. He died in in 1518 and was succeeded by his son named Pati Unus or prince Sultan Demak Sabrang Lor title that only 3-year rule since died. Then he was succeeded by his brother Prince Sultan Demak title Trenggono who ruled until the year 1548. In ruling Trenggono able to extend the kingdom until the area Pase Portuguese-ruled North Sumatra, where a cleric from Pase named Fatahillah crossed to Demak and mated with the king's sister. Because Fatahillah, then won Demak trade places Pajajaran kingdom in West Java which is not Islam, that is Cirebon and Banten (finally submitted Fatahillah by Demak).

In 1522, the Portuguese came to the Sunda Kalapa (now Jakarta) in cooperation with the king Pajajaran face of Islam, which allowed the Portuguese fort at Sunda Kalapa establish it. Then in 1527 the Portuguese came back where Sunda Kalapa has changed its name to White Rose, under the rule of Fatahillah who lived in Banten, so that the Portuguese lost the war and leave the area. While Trenggono own and although successful menalukkan Singhasari Mataram, but the area of ​​Pasuruan and Blambangan Panarukan can survive and remain a permanent part of the Hindu Balinese, which in the year 1548 he died due to war with Pasuruan.

Trenggono death caused a power struggle between his brother and son named prince who holds Sunan Prawoto Prawoto (1549). The prince's brother nicknamed Seda Lepen killed on the banks of the river and Prawoto and his family killed by the son of prince Seda Lepen named Arya Panangsang. Demak controlled Aryan Throne Penangsang notoriety and dislikes of people, causing chaos everywhere. Especially when the duke Japara who have a major impact also killed, which resulted in the brother of the duke japara nicknamed Queen duke-duke Kalinyamat with others oppose Aryan Panangsang, which one of the duke's name was Hadiwijoyo Tingkir nicknamed Jake, is the son of a once-in-law Kebokenongo Trenggono.

Jake Tingkir, which ruled in Pajang Boyolali, in the war managed to kill Arya Penangsang. And therefore he moved to the Palace Demak Pajang and he became the first king in the Display. Thus, the drop history of the Islamic kingdom of Demak. But inform the kingdom of Demak, less complete if you have not told of the arrival of Islam in Java and the presence of Wali Sanga at Demak rule.





The arrival of Islam to Java



In Gresik (Leran area) was found stone lettered AD 1082 many Arabs who told me that had died of a woman named Fatima bint Maimun as Muslim. Then around 1350 during the height of the greatness of Majapahit, in the port of Tuban and Gresik much the arrival of Muslim traders from India and from the kingdom of the Ocean (North Aceh), which was also originally part of the Majapahit Kingdom, in addition to the merchants who trade to Samudra Majapahit. Also according to the story, there is a daughter nicknamed Princess Cempa Islamic and Chinese woman who became wife of one of the king of Majapahit.

Very tolerant towards Islam Majapahit seen from the many Islamic cemetery in the village Tralaya, the royal city, with the oldest number on the tombstone is the year 1369 (when Hayam Wuruk rule). Interestingly, although the Islamic cemetery but his tombstone shapes such as braces that remind kala-makara, framed in the letter Kawi, which means that in the XIV century a new religion of Islam despite the Majapahit but as a cultural element has been received by the community. It is known that the immigrants from western and Chinese people were largely Muslim, which continues to grow and reach its peak in the sixteenth century when the kingdom of Demak.

Majapahit

Raden Wijaya who is pursuing Kediri troops to the north forced to flee after learning that Singhasari fall, while Arddharaja betray Kadiri. With the help of the village headman Kudadu Raden Wijaya to cross into Madura, in order to seek protection and assistance from Wiraraja in Sungeneb.

On the advice and assurance Wiraraja, Raden Wijaya devote themselves to Jayakatwang in Kadiri, and he was awarded land in the village of Drag, a top aid Madurese village was opened and became fertile by the name of Majapahit.

Meanwhile, China's army of 20,000 men armed with a ship that transported 1000 to one year has landed in Tuban and near Surabaya, in order to reply to insult Krtanegara of Kublai Khan.

Here utilized Raden Wijaya is merged into the Chinese army to demolish the Kadiri, who finally surrendered Jayakatwang. But when Chinese troops arrived at the port to come back, Raden Wijaya attacked the Chinese army, so many leave the victims while continuing to return to China.



With the help of Singhasari troops who returned from Sumatra, Raden Wijaya the first king of Majapahit kingdom holds Krtarajasa Jayawardhana (1293-1309), have 4 (four) wives, where the oldest named Tribhuwana / Dara Petak and the youngest named Gayatri is also called Rajapatni and from him was ongoing Majapahit kings next.

The Royal Family of Majapahit

Then substitute the proper Gayatri, but since he has left the worldly life that is to become nuns, then his son was the one who named Bhre Kahuripan representing ibunnya ascended the throne with the title Tribhuwananottunggadewi Jayawisnuwardhani (1328-1360).

Year 1331 came the uprising in Sadeng and Keta (Besuki area). So the governor replaced Majapahit Pu Naga Daha governor of Gajah Mada, so that the rebellion can be crushed.

Gajah Mada in showing his devotion, vowed called Palapa Oath (meaning salt and spices), namely: that he will not feel the palapa, before the whole archipelago under the Majapahit rule. Or for those of Java, called mutih.

The first step, Gajah Mada led the troops conquered Bali in the year 1343 with Adityawarman (son majapahit Malay descent who served as the Majapahit Wrddhamantri title Arrya dewaraja Adutya pu), who had conquered Krtanagara but was free again. Then Adityawarman placed in Malay as the title wrddhamantri Arrya Dewaraja Pu Aditya.

Adityawarman in Sumatra Mauliwarmmadewa reorganize the government that we know in the year 1286. He expanded powers to regional Pagarruyung (Minangkabau) and appointed himself as maharajadhiraja (1347), although against Gayatri he still claims to be the leading paramedics and still incest with the king's daughter.

Year 1360 Gayatri's death, then Tribhuwanottunggadewi even abdication, and submit to the son of Hayam Wuruk, who was born in the year 1334 upon her marriage with KErtawardddhana.

Hayam Wuruk rule with a degree Rajasanagara (1360-1369), with Gajah Mada as his patih. All of the Indonesian archipelago Malacca peninsula even flying the banner of Majapahit, friendly relations with neighboring countries is robust. Palapa Oath accomplished, experienced the golden age of Majapahit.

Once there, just stay Sunda Baduga Sri Maharaja-ruled that according to the inscription Batutulis (Bogor) of 1333 is the king Pakwan Pajajaran (son and grandson of Rahyang Dewaniskala Rahyang Niskalawastu geographical) that can not be conquered Majapahit Kingdom, despite 2 (two) times attacked. By way of deception finally in the year 1357 Sri Baduga along the Sunda can magnifying brought to the Majapahit and brutally destroyed in the field bubat. Because this war is very interesting, particularly the core story is told by Song Sudayana Bubat War, as below.

Raden Wijaya ruled firmly and wisely, peaceful and safe country, the composition of government similar to Singhasari, plus 2 (two), the minister of rakryan Rangga and rakryan Tumenggung. While Wiraraja that much help was given very high positions of power in the region coupled with Lumajang until Blambangan.

He died in 1309, leaving a 2 (two) daughters of Gayatri nicknamed Bhre Kahuripan and Bhre Daha, and one boy from Dara Petak is Kalagemet / Jayanegara who in 1309 ascended the throne. To honor, Raden Wijaya dicandikan at Shiva temple on the Temple Sumberjati Simping south of Blitar and at temples in the city of Buda in Antahpura Majapahit. Harihara statue is a manifestation, in the form of Vishnu and Shiva in a single statue. While Tribhuwana glorified in the temple in the southwest Rimbi Mojokerto, manifested as Parvati.

Kalagemet / Jayanegara (1309-1328), who in an inscription is considered as an incarnation of Vishnu with the state badge Minadwaya (two fish) in the reign many faces revolts against the Majapahit from those still loyal to Krtarajasa. The first rebellion actually has started since Krtarajasa still alive, namely by Rangga Lawe, located in Tuban, due to unsatisfied because he did not become governor of Majapahit but Nambi, Wiraraja child. But his efforts (1309) can be thwarted.

The second rebellion in the year 1311 by Sora, a rakryan in Majapahit, but failed. Then the third in the year 1316, by his patih itself is Nambi, Lumajang and fortresses from the area in Pajarakan. He is also a family was crushed. The next rebellion by Kuti in 1319, which had occupied the capital of Majapahit, the king fled under the cover of the palace guards who called Bhayangkari as many as 15 people under the leadership of Gajah Mada. But with the aid of troops who are still loyal Majapahit, Gajah Mada with pounding Bhayangkarinya Kuti, and finally Jayanegara to continue his reign.

Jayanegara's death in 1328 without an offspring. He dicandikan in Sila plot and Bubat with manifestation as Vishnu, and in Sukalila as Amoghasiddhi, where the temples it can not be known again.

History of Indonesian Batik

One of cultural product which is considered a work of genius is a local batik.When the experts talk about batik, it means Indonesia or, more specifically, Java. The famous designer from the West did not hesitate to pick up inspiration from batik.Emilio Pucci, the Italian designer who astonish the world in the 1960s with a striking design motif, taking into one of batik cloth and clothing design (Pucci, A Renaissance in Fashion, 1991). The designer is now a world more like Giorgio Armani, Kenzo and Paul Smith has long been impressed by the Indonesian batik and woven fabric.People of humanity is also a former South African President, Nelson Mandela, always berkemeja made batik Indonesia in every occasion, including state occasions.

As a decorating technique, batik not only in Indonesia. Establish where the origins of batik are also possibly be in vain. Iwan Tirta mention, batik evolved simultaneously in different parts of the world. However, the world recognizes that the Javanese batik is the most delicate because it has a decorative pattern of the richest, most developed coloring techniques, and technically the most perfect creation than batik from other regions.Batik is just one technique of decorating fabric that grown in Indonesia. Indonesia familiar with other techniques ie before threads are woven like a bunch of techniques.These techniques are often combined so as to produce wealth techniques to create extraordinary decoration. They are now entering the industry such as batik and fabric Iwan Tirta, Josephine Komara of Bin House or Baron Manansang of Weaving Baron, similarly said, batik, tie, jumputan and weaving techniques such as songket and striated, giving an almost unlimited opportunities in producing decoration and in the future these techniques could always meet the demands of the times. 

Although initially only one of batik techniques to create ornaments, but in the development of batik became very prominent compared with other techniques to create decoration.There are several reasons why more developed batik in Java. Iwan Tirta mentioned, one important reason is the batik cloth to be an alternative to woven fabrics such as belts or any other that requires a longer time in the making and is unable to meet the needs. This happens especially when the fabric meets the need for religious ceremonies.Batik as decoration and began imitating decoration formed by weaving techniques.The most obvious example is the imitation motive patola, which is a kind of double ikat cloth from Gujarat, India. The resulting bundle motif refinement patola quickly drew the interest of royal nobility Java (Central). However, the scarcity of supply, making batik artisans quickly imitate patola motif. Thus was born the motive nitik and jlamprang in Pekalongan.Other evidence cited Iwan Tirta is in areas where developing weaving, batik does not develop. Batik then also began to imitate the decorative embroidery from mainland China mainly for altar cloths and decorate the walls because of batik can repeat motifs are faster.

Other reasons why batik survive and thrive is because batik get protection (patronage) of the palace in the past, the government of the Republic of Indonesia after birth, and an elite group of society when society increasingly dominant role.Batik-Batik batik artisans produced the best to the king in part because it is a manifestation of the artist's devotion to the Creator.Head of State is the patron when Indonesia was independent. Star Sudibjo deceased was one of batik artisans who have a place when President Sukarno ruled. Iwan Tirta then get a place when the late Mrs. Tien Soeharto humah heard of a man is not bloody understand Javanese batik. Now President Wahid is also more frequent Adurrahman wearing batik shirts in a variety show.In addition, batik still have a place among the elite of Indonesia although a Western-style dress into everyday wear. Iwan Tirta in the 1980's to introduce batik with gold leaf, and come to give color to the development of batik. Houses fabric Bin House back to excite against batik and batik cloth back into fashion. Among the younger designers of age, began to seriously pursue Carmanita batik and participate give their own color. Various batik design competition and apply it to everyday wear, held various nongovernmental organizations contributed to the persistence of batik till today.

BEFORE batik as it is now known to exist, which is a technique used to decorate with color hold a candle tonight, in Indonesia has been known for "batik" with a simpler technique. Cain simbut in Banten, and fabric ma'a from Toraja, South Sulawesi, using techniques also hold color. As a drag on the fabric color simbut used the crushed rice and sticky rice mixed with sugar water. Cain then dipped into the liquid dye made from plants. Then the rice sticky rice scraped and covered the rice sticky rice remained white like the original color of the fabric.Ma'a was first done in an isolated mountainous area, so there is a suspicion, as mentioned Iwan Tirta, Indonesia has the embryo of batik from within its own territory.One example of batik cloth is still produced and become examples of the evolution of intermediaries to shape the current batik is batik cloth-striated Tuban in East Java and some Jambi batik cloth. The shape of the dots that form a geometric pattern or plaid.Rens Heringa anthropologist who has studied Javanese batik for over 25 years in Batik from the North Coast of Java (1997) among others mention, simple motifs on simbut cloth, batik-striated Tuban or Jambi batik cloth, were also found in a variety of objects made in South Asia and Southeast Asia. 

The same design is also found in batik are drawn using bamboo sticks called laran, made ethnic minorities in southwest China, and ethnic minorities in the mountains of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar.Use of the night (candle) to distinguish batik is now known of the early forms of batik.Tonight provides an opportunity to produce a variety of motifs of batik in Java so that developed into the shape it is today.Techniques to create decorative cloth with color resist technique is estimated to already exist in the Islands archipelago since prehistoric times, although no example of fabric that remains today except the fabric of the 19th century. One of them is the fabric simbut contained in the National Museum.There are not many records about the development of batik technique (holding color) start to become rich Javanese batik techniques detailed and complex decoration.

One reason for the Javanese batik is women's work, and therefore not worth written down since the writing is the domain of men.Heringa said, although evidence of written or physical evidence of the development of batik in the early days have not been found today, but most early myths about batik already exist in about 700 AD Myth says about prince from the east coast near Surabaya Jenggala named Ox Amiluhur. Bride Amiluhur Ox, a nobleman's daughter from Coromandel, India and her ladies who are Hindu, teaches weaving, batik, and dye fabric to the people of Java. This myth survived until the son of Ox, Raden Panji Ima Kerta Pati, became king.Written records of new batik emerged hundreds of years later, in 1518, from Galuh region in the northwest of Java, in pre-Islamic.Both the myth and the first written records about batik, both located in coastal or northern coast of Java and before the entry of Islam. These areas have tremendous influences from India, China, and Persia through trade. Color resist techniques using wax (night) which may be imported from the Coromandel and Persian, has more in common visually with traditional cloth Coast, especially in the size and format.However, artisans in Java, and then develop their own fabric to match their needs so that then the techniques used in the Coromandel is only decoration is made only on one side is very different from the Javanese batik in detail, so not exactly Javanese batik originated from India. The same thing applies to the fabric of Persian kalamkari using block-printing process to get the ornament.

China also contributed to the Javanese batik at least since the time of Sultan Agung, who became the first Muslim king in Mataram (1613-1645). Sultan Agung mentioned using batik bird huk which in Chinese mythology brings good luck blessing. This story opens up the possibility of the role of Chinese immigrants in the 19th century on the coast in the spread of Islam. Alternatively, immigrants from southern China contributed to the development of batik. Women from ethnic minorities in the south and southeast China decorate their cotton fabric with color using wax resist techniques used in Java from the Ming Empire to present.Dutch colonialists began to pay attention to the batik in the 19th century. The experts at that time to make judgments about batik distorted by stating that originally centered batik from Yogyakarta and Surakarta Kingdom new spread to women artisans in the villages that make batik for commercial purposes.Rens Heringa reject that view, saying the possibility of new batik technique into the hinterland of Java after the middle of the 17th century when the Sultanate of Mataram develop and adopt a culture of Coastal. When Kertasura became the capital of the kingdom, colors and patterns change gradually becomes softer style palaces of Central Java. Batik-batik from Yogyakarta Palace and especially Surakarta and motifs derived from both, then regarded as the pinnacle work of batik and batik from another area then considered not as beautiful batik two areas that, for a very long time.So far, all made using batik canting with different size and shape refinement. Staining using a natural dye, and batik is more of a seasonal job for the family.Batik began to develop as a commercial commodity when in the late 18th-century fabric of Indian exports have fallen because of competition from European print fabric.

Batik from Coastal began to replace the fabric of Indian and Peranakan Chinese traders was instrumental in the production of and trade in batik.Peranakan traders who trade over a white cotton cloth and other materials batik maker, has a network of up to remote villages and they also lend money. They often give advance payments to encourage the production of batik by the women in the countryside. In the mid-19th century women's Indo-European and Indo-Arab coming in as a batik entrepreneur. During this period the women in the villages of Java, was working outside their villages to earn wages as batik, especially when the harvest was not successful family.Pekalongan in 1850 by collector Harmen C. Veldhuisen Batik (Batik Netherlands, Dutch Influence in Batik from Java History and Stories, 1993), has evolved as an important center of batik. In the batik industry and the division of labor occurs: the man in charge of preparing the white and colored cotton cloth, while women batik motifs determined by the buyer or copying ready-made batik wear tonight.Since the beginning of the start of commercial production of batik, batik needs can never be fulfilled. Therefore, in the early 19th century, formed a market for imitating batik cloth with print techniques imported from Europe.This fact and encourage batik traders developed a technique to speed up the production process. They then conduct various experiments, among others, using sweet potato as a stamp. Finally found stamp made of copper wire blocks that make up one block motif. However, since the stamp was making requires a lot of manpower, production of cloth should be large enough to make it economical.Veldhuisen mention one stamp can make about 200 gloves. 

Because making batik is a job for men, women forced to only be able to work to make batik.World War I brought destruction to the batik industry. White cotton imports from the Netherlands disrupted, batik price rises, and to earn money as much as possible, the batik produce as much as possible. The result is flooding the market and prices fell, while the limited supply of fabric. After World War I, the Dutch East Indies re-import the cloth in 1918 but printed batik industry improved only a moment since then affected by depression. Only those who are serving a group of elite like batik Peranakan who could survive. This causes a lot of batik lose their jobs, and then batik imported from other regions using rail when the wages of local batik became too expensive.

BATIK is a major clothing to describe a person's social position, especially during the reign of the kingdom and Dutch colonial rule. Parang motif is damaged, for example, may only be worn by the king in Yogyakarta and Surakarta. The motive, according to myth has been saved from the danger of Raden Panji and Sultan Agung also use this motif.Batik is considered to have meaning associated with birth, marriage, and death.Javanese people who died for example, the base where he lay before going to the grave covered seven of batik cloth, batik is also used to cover the body. Brides sidamukti cloth as a symbol of blessing.Iwan Tirta who calls himself as the guardian of traditional values ​​batik, batik look at the future of fashion will survive as a complement to modern (Western) women in Indonesia in the form of cloth scarf (shawl) or scarf, as a batik shirt, or as a decor element. Long batik cloth in the form of kebaya worn together will only be used at certain times only.The more melunturnya-sacred elements of tradition in everyday life humans Indonesia, had an impact on the disappearance of the meaning of batik. That will develop later is really batik as decoration.Batik is a resist technique night wear any color will likely increasingly rare, especially batik. The process that takes time, especially if you want to get the batik with many colors, make batik become increasingly expensive. Batik write with such beauty in the 19th century and early 20th century, probably just a collection of objects.On the other hand, the growth of textile industry in Indonesia is also threatening the existence of batik in the sense that they reproduce without using the batik technique but using a technique of batik print. Lay people may be fooled by the "batik" like this batik cloth could be "cheap".

One of the Javanese batik making is different from other local batik is isen-isen which became the main motive background that the outline is divided into geometric patterns and motifs nongeometris. While batik is victorious, isen-isen which can be the point, and tendrils or lines, filling the entire background of the fabric, something that is very rarely done anymore because it takes a long time in the process. Batik, as a technique to make ornaments, perhaps eventually will belong to a few people only.

Ninuk Mardiana Pambudy Kompas journalist.

Gamelan - The Spirit of Java

Gamelan is surely not a foreign music. Its popularity has penetrated every continent and has created a new blend of jazz-gamelan music, gave birth to the institution as a learning space and the expression of gamelan music, to produce famous gamelan musicians. Gamelan music instrument can now be enjoyed in many parts of the world, but Yogyakarta is the most appropriate place to enjoy gamelan it since you can enjoy the original version.

Gamelan developing in Yogyakarta is Javanese gamelan, a form of gamelan is different from Balinese gamelan or Sundanese gamelan. Javanese gamelan has a softer tone and slow, in contrast to the dynamic Balinese gamelan and Sundanese gamelan highly dominated lilting voice and flute. The difference is reasonable, since Java has a view of life that is expressed in the rhythm of gamelan music.

Javanese philosophy of life expressed in gamelan music is the harmony of physical and spiritual life, harmony in speaking and acting so as not to create an explosive expression and create tolerance among fellow. Real form of music is the pull string fiddle that is, a balanced blend of sound kenong, saron drums and xylophone and gong sounds on every cover of rhythm.







There is no definite history of gamelan. The development is expected since the emergence of gamelan music gong, fiddle, clapping to the mouth, the friction on a thin rope or bamboo to familiar musical instruments from metal. Further development after named gamelan, the music was used to accompany wayang performance, and dance. Later it became independent as the music itself and equipped with the voice of sinden.

A set of gamelan consist of several instruments, including a set of similar musical instrument drum called a drum, fiddle and zither, xylophone, gongs and bamboo flutes. The main components that make up the gamelan music instruments are bamboo, metal, and wood. Each instrument has its own function in gamelan music show, for example gong music played to close a long and give the balance after the previous music rhythm decorated by gising.

Cental Java Gamelan Instruments

• Kendang (Drum),  is a leader  instrumen. Pengendang is the conductor of thegamelan music. There are 5 drum size of 20 cm - 45 cm.


• Saron, percussion instruments of bronze with wood refuted. There are 3 kinds ofSaron; Barung Saron, Saron Peking, Saron demung.


• Bonang Barung, equipment consists of 2 rows of bronze is played with 2 tools at.


• Gambang (Xylophone), wooden slab placed on wooden frames.


• Gender, almost the same as slentem with more bronze plate.


• Gong slendro and pelog, each set comes with 3 gongs. Two major Gong (GongAgeng) and one gong suwukan about 90 cm, made ​​of bronze, Gong signal the end ofthe song lyrics long.


• Kempul, small gong, to indicate which parts rhythmic songs short. Each set slendro andpelog consists of 6 or 10 kempul.


• Siter, each set slendro and pelog require 1 siter.


• Ketug, also called small kenong, indicating a pause between songs.


• Kenong, something like a small gong above placemat, a set can complete a good set of 10 kenong slendro or pelog.


• Slentem, bronze plate were placed on bamboo for resonance.


• Seruling (flute), each set slendro and pelog require a flute.


• Clempung, string instruments, each set slendro and pelog require one clempung.

The Java Island - Home of Culture and Harmony

The area of Java is very vast covering central and east Java island. In ancient time Mataram kingdom which are now the the special district of Yogyakarta and Solo in Central Java were the center of their culture. In 1755 the kingdom was splited into 2, one is the Sultanate of Yogyakarta, and one other is Kasunanan of Surakarta ( both are Islamic kingdoms ). Javanese speak complex dialect which introduces social status. In general the dialect is divided into two levels that are "Ngoko" dialect which is spoken among known partners, and "Krama" dialect which is spoken among those who are not known each other and for those whose social status is considered higher. Both Ngoko and Krama have more further variations, when it was spoken for palace member, higher status level, or more senior people, or for lower level, etc.

Java land is the most densely populated in Indonesia. Many big cities are still developing such as Yogyakarta, Semarang, Solo, Surabaya, Blitar, and Malang. While dozens of medium to small cities still heavy with population. So the welfare of the people is still a tremendous big works. Still a large part of the population working on the land cultivating rice, cassava ( marlihot utilissima Phl), corn (zea mays L), yam (ipomea batatas poir ), Kacang ( vigna sinencis), gude (cjamis cajan), soya ( glycine soya Bth ), bean (arachis hypogen L), etc.

Some people work in government offices, private companies, trades and especially near the beaches as fishermen. Personal ownership of land in Java is the same as other areas in Indonesia. The ownership is transferred down from generation to generation, divided among the heirs. That is why in Java most family has a small land for farming.

Kinship system in Java is almost the same as in Bali, that is forbidden to marry between brother and sister, nephew, and children among brothers and sisters, and marry older woman. There are many ways a man and a woman come to their marriage status. First the family of the man come to the family of the woman to request their daughter, and this is the normal procedure. Second is when a man after dedicated himself to the parent of the woman, than is given as a present to marry their daughter. Third is the present from royal family. Fourth is the family of the woman come to the family of man to request. Fifth is when a marriage is arranged by both parents, in this case the marriage will be an imperative and forced by both parents. This way is become very rare and might be disappear in the future. Divorce in some reasons is accepted due to the absence of child, inability of husband to give welfare to the wife, and other reasonable causes.

In Javanese society there is class considered high status such as "bandara-bandara" consist of royal family lineage, and the "priyayi" the government workers and learnt persons. In contrast to above 2 groups is a class called "wong cilik" means small people, those are the common people which is mostly poor. Based on religious characteristics there are "Santri" and "Kejawen" Santri is Moslem that is very obedience with Islamic rules, while Kejawen is Moslem but they are not praying nor have the idea to go for a haj to Mecca.

Organizationally, the smaller unit of administration is called Desa or Kelurahan with head called "Lurah" Once again the understanding of Desa in Java contains much different affairs compared those a Desa in Bali. A Desa in Java is an administrative area as a bridge between Indonesian government with local organization.

Islam has been is the majority religion in Java, not question about that as at every corner of the land we can see mosques. Not all Javanese practice religious rituals according to the Islamic doctrines. As already mentioned there are "Kejawen", and also many people are Christian, Hindu, Buddhist, and others. The Moslem-Kejawen believe that there is an omni-power incomparable wherever and whenever it does.. This supreme power is called "Kesakten" Below kesakten there are ancestor's spirits, good and evil spirits which can affect human life. In conjunction with this power and spirits they make an offering and a feast for the blessing ceremony. Those rituals such as:

Life circle rites including many ritual after death. Basically there are ritual from Pregnancy - Birth - Life - Death - After Death.

Various ritual for the Desa, Rice field, and Land cultivation,

Various ritual for the Moslem holidays,

Ritual for special event such as opening new house, diseases, long journey etc.

During the ritual they make an offering and is dedicated to supreme power and the lower invisible beings. Even, after death they have ceremonies after 3, 7, 40, 100, and 1000 days.

In their ritualistic tradition it is very clear that influence of Hindu is still very strong observing from the names they use, and some specific beliefs which arises such as: 

(1) a belief of good and evil spirits, 

(2) a belief mixed between Moslem and Hindu, 

(3) a belief showing Hindu characters, 

(4) a belief in mystic. 

They are all in search of human welfare.

Various tourism interests are spreaded over Java from western tip to eastern tip of the island. Lately the security concern is arises due to the economic crisis of the country which is not last yet.